Where to Stay in Kyoto – The City is Bigger Than You Think

Kyoto is More Sprawling Than You’d Expect

You often think of Japan as a country with a massive population in a small space. But, much like our discussion in our article about where to stay in Tokyo, the cities here also cover a large area when you really stop to think about it.

Kyoto takes this trend from Tokyo to what feels like a new level. The city has just about 1.5 million people, but a population density about 70% less than Tokyo proper. It is even 15% less dense population-wise than Pittsburgh, where we live, which is saying a lot as our city feels quite spacious. So when we say that Kyoto feels like it covers a massive area, we really mean it. 

But where the big problem comes into play is that Kyoto’s subway and public transit lines are not nearly as robust as they are in Tokyo. As a result, it takes a fair bit of time to get anywhere.

Where it may take 30-40 minutes to get between two distant points in Tokyo by metro, in Kyoto, that number is probably more like an hour, if not longer, despite covering a much smaller area.

To go from Gion to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, for example, you’re looking at about 50 to 60 minutes on public transit or about 30 minutes by taxi. To go from Gion to the Gekkeikan Sake Brewery and Museum in the south, you are looking at 30 minutes by public transit or 20 minutes by taxi. But to go from the Bamboo Forest to Gekkeikan, or the Fushimi Inari Shrine, you’re looking at anywhere from 60 to 90 minutes on public transit, with upwards of two transfers, or a 30 to 60 minute taxi ride depending on the time of day. 

This presents an interesting issue because if you are traveling an hour each way, that means you should likely allocate a good part of your day to one part of the city at a time. So being strategic with respect for travel times, relative to what you want to see, can really help in the long run. (As does staying an extra night or two, if you can swing it.)

Gion is the Perfect Location

The good news here is that we can easily say that the popular Gion District is perfectly situated to overcome a lot of these concerns purely because it is centrally located within Kyoto.

Yes, it is tourist-forward. But also yes, it is a lot of fun and, perhaps most importantly, it is in a great location.

Not only can you explore a historic side of Kyoto on foot, you can also be walking around the modern and bustling downtown simply by crossing the river and heading a few blocks to the west- a win-win for those who want a bit of everything without having to get on public transit. You’re not going to get to see all of Kyoto on foot, of course, but this one does check a few more boxes than other areas in our opinion.

As far as neighborhood bases are concerned, we couldn’t have asked for a better time here. Every evening, for example, we would wander around the historic old streets of Gion, walk along the river trail at sunset, and then pop over to the bustling downtown side of the river for dinner before returning on foot with no public transit needed.

But that is only one small section of Kyoto overall!

Staying Near Kyoto Station Can Cut Down Travel Time

Although we are biased for all things Gion, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention that there is still a lot more of the city you are likely interested in seeing, and if those areas are a higher priority, staying near one may make sense.

For example, no matter how early I tried on both of my visits, I couldn’t get into the Bamboo Forest before the crowds started to arrive- I had to cross all of Kyoto to get there from Gion, and those who were staying closer could make it in just a big quicker despite what I thought was an early arrival. The same was also true with the Fushimi Inari Shrine to the south. We still managed to access the grounds before things got insanely busy, but the travel time was still a hurdle, despite getting up somewhat early to try to beat the crowds.

Those who prioritize having the best access to public transit for quicker travel times, for example, may want to stay near Kyoto Station, too. This is a central hub that has reasonably good access to most of the city. You’re not centrally located to one particular highlight like you are in Gion, but rather the location averages out the distances to everything else. We estimate that if you were staying near here, you could likely reach most corners of the city in 20 to 30 minutes, whereas that time could expand to 30 to 60 minutes when in Gion for some of the further flung places in Kyoto mentioned above.

That short distance apart can really add a lot of travel time when you stop to think about it, and we really felt that!

The downside here is that you may find that attractions within walking distance are a bit more limited than in other neighborhoods, but as with all things Japan, fun experiences are really never that far away. 

We opted for a bit more travel time to enjoy the proximity to attractions in Gion as noted above, but this could be a compelling option for some.

Most Areas Can Make for a Great Base, But Prepare for Crowds

The final benefit worth pointing out in Kyoto is that every popular area for visitors has its own unique charm. You honestly can’t go wrong staying in most sections of the city if you find a few experiences that strike your interest within walking distance.

But, that said, it is also worth keeping in mind that Kyoto is a very popular destination for travelers, and almost all of the famous neighborhoods can get exceptionally busy during the day. But if you walk just a few blocks away from the tourist centers (say, about 10 minutes), you can have relative calm while still enjoying the accessibility. The spaciousness of Kyoto can really be felt just on the fringes of each popular area.

For us, we admit that we wanted to avoid some of the hustle and bustle of the Gion District while still being close, and we found an apartment rental within a 10-minute walk to the south that was just a few blocks from a metro stop. This was the best of all worlds for us because we were still a block from the river walk, a short walk to both Gion and the bustling downtown side of Kyoto, and could get over to Kyoto Station on the subway relatively quickly when needed.

It is that reason why we kept looking at just outside of Gion- there was so much to do within walking distance that it made sense for us to have many things to enjoy during the times we wanted to be near our hotel, but we also had relative peace immediately outside of our space. This is also true near the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, the Fushimi Inari Shrine, and more.

So while we think staying somewhere central has its perks for the best travel times around the city, don’t be afraid to look just outside of the most popular areas if you’re okay with a short walk to the highlights. Kyoto has the room to breathe, and that is a perk for comfort just as much as it may be a downside for exploring the city at large.

Do you have a favorite area of Kyoto to stay when you visit? Comment below to share!

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